![]() ![]() When converting an image from full color I have found the sliders to be best here, using presets to find a close match and then using slight adjustments to tune your image.Using the sliders to adjust your exposure appropriately is recommended.For this example, "+2 Stops" is washed out and "-2 Stops" is underexposed.We are looking for a final image that is slightly washed-out with sharp contrast, but not overly so.Recommended to tune your exposure through the slider. While here I'd like to point out that through Affinity all your adjustments show as a new layer and have the option to toggle on/off as would any other layers.If you do not see adjustments on your right sidebar then you may need to enable them by clicking "view" on the top menu bar > click "studio" drop down menu > and check "adjustments".The location for adjustments is found on the right toolbar in Affinity, click the tab next to "Layers" titled "Adjustment". ![]() In my example I cropped the doorway and building name, removed the window squares from our doors and corrected the skew of my canvas.Remove everything that you wouldn't want showing up on your final project.For all image adjustments, you have the option to use presets or adjust via the sliders. Keep in mind that darker tones will engrave deeper than lighter tones. The settings below determine the depth and quality of your engraving. You configure Engrave Depth through Grayscale. Useful for engraving photos with more color depth than basic grayscaleĮngraving photographs of 300 DPI this type produces a good pattern on most photosĮngraving photos at 300 DPI, similar to "Stucki" As with most laser cutting, we recommend testing your file prior to doing a final pass. A dither is not required for all engrave projects. The Epilog Dashboard also has dither patterns that can be selected when sending your file. Dithering may be done via photo editing software such as Affinity or Photoshop. ![]() This depends on material, settings, and file detail.
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